
Please email any questions to me that have not been answered here. I've had lots of questions over the years so have tried to be thorough in touching on various issues without being too boring or redundant.

Individual website orders are usually shipped in 2-5 business days. Some larger, more complex, or customized orders may take longer. Since all orders are shipped UPS, you will receive an email with a tracking number on the date that the package goes in the mail. Please know that my studio gets very busy around major holidays, so place your order as early as possible. If you are planning for a special occasion or need a piece for a specific date, please let me know and I will do what I can to meet your deadline. You can also rush your order for an additional fee (see below).
Repairs usually take 5-10 business days from the time that the piece to be repaired is received. If you have a specific deadline, please contact me in advance to see if it’s possible. Custom order deliveries are discussed at the initial review meeting.
Before placing a rush order, call or email me to see if it’s possible to make a piece that day in the studio. In most cases an order can be rushed for same-day shipping for an additional 15% charge, plus whichever UPS shipping option you select at the time of ordering.
I accept money in just about any way you want to send it… cash, check, MasterCard, Visa, American Express, and Discover are all possible ways to pay. Due to ease for paying over the internet, all online orders are processed through PayPal unless you select another payment option. You can call me for direct payment over the phone with a credit card, or mail a check with your order (orders will be mailed once the check has cleared).
All orders are shipped insured with a tracking number, regardless of the carrier used. All online orders are shipped using UPS so that you can track your package online and plan for delivery. When you select your shipping option, the rates will be calculated for your delivery options. If you need another shipping or delivery option, email the studio with your preference and we can provide you with a shipping quote. This will require processing your order and payment over the phone or by email, so be sure to give us your contact information so we can follow up with you.
If you placed your order online, an email with a tracking number for your package was automatically sent to you. This is the best way to track your package. If you used another shipping option, please email the studio so we can look up the tracking information for you and we will go from there to figure out where your package is. If your package is lost, I will re-send the order to you if you help me to file a claim for the loss.
Do not worry about giving a gift of jewelry! I gladly accept exchanges for any of my jewelry in its original sale condition. Returns are only accepted by my approval, so contact me if you have any issues. If there are any problems or flaws with the jewelry, please contact me to discuss it. In most cases I will repair it or replace it for free. Luckily this rarely happens!
All jewelry is packaged in a gift box with a care card and artist information so that the recipient knows it is handmade. When an order is placed online, an invoice is automatically sent to the email address you provide. There will not be an invoice in the package. A gift card is included in the package so that the recipient knows whom to thank. If you choose to not pay online, please provide us with the address to send your receipt.

If your new jewelry is made of sterling silver, it likes to tarnish over time. This mottled darkening of exposed surfaces adds a richness and complexity to the designs that many people enjoy. I know that sounds kind of funny, but I mean it. A lot of my jewelry is very artful and it enhances the experience, look, and overall patina of the piece the way that it changes over time.
With that said, you can help prevent the tarnishing of your jewelry by storing it in a sealed plastic bag or jewelry box. Wearing it frequently will also slow tarnishing.
If you do want to remove any tarnish, there are a number of methods you can use:
In general, no polishing is needed if your piece has an oxidized patina. If your piece is partially oxidized, you can carefully polish the shiny silver areas with a polishing cloth. I have also found that commercial liquid tarnish removers do not remove applied oxidation/patination, but I cannot guarantee results since I haven’t tried all brands. In general I recommend holding just the shiny part in the liquid tarnish remover and rinsing quickly. Note: polishing cloths and the baking soda method will both remove any applied oxidation/patination.
In general, soap and water are all that are needed to clean gold pieces. I have had a rare situation where the gold started to oxidize and darken like the oxidized silver and found that the gold was restored in a liquid tarnish remover.
If that is too much to handle, all of this leads me to option 4: you can mail the piece back to me and I will polish it for you (see the next question).
I am more than happy to work on a piece for you if you want it polished, cleaned, reworked, or touched up in any way. If the piece does not have any gems or pearls, I can re-oxidize it for you to the dark blackish color. I cannot re-apply a gradient finish, but can touch it up for you and restore any lost shine. The fees and handling for these processes are the same as for repairs.
Yes, just check out the “incidentals” section of the website and order one there.
All of the jewelry is designed to be worn. The jewelry has a delicate look to it, although most of it is more durable than expected – particularly the wrapped forms where the delicate wrapping wire adds a lot of structure much like a basket or suspension bridge. It is handmade, though, and some pieces are more delicate than others. If you have a question about a specific piece, please email me and I can answer any questions and point you towards certain pieces that meet your criteria.
Cables provide a simple and beautiful line for pendants, but they are delicate and can kink if pulled. If your cable gets a kink, it can be worked out by gently rubbing the wires to soothe the bump out. I often do this in a polishing cloth, focusing on the kink and then pulling the wire as a whole to smooth the entire shape. You can also rub the bump gently against the rounded edge of a counter or desk while pulling the cable taught. The best way to store a cable is in a box. You can unclasp it and coil it loosely so it fits into a smaller box, but don’t force it or it will kink.
Not to worry, it can be repaired or replaced. All repairs are handled on a case by case basis depending on the extent of the repair needed. I usually need to see the piece in person before quoting a price. You can send the piece to me at the studio for review – please include a note with your contact information in the package, and also call or email me with a heads up that it is coming my way and what to expect in the package. I make it as quick, easy and painless as possible, and most repairs are done on an hourly rate to give you the best possible price.

This is always a sad situation, but I can make a matching earring for you. I charge 60% of the price of the pair of earrings to make a mate since it is harder to make the exact size mate, plus return shipping. I will also need you to mail the remaining earring to me so I can match it exactly. You can either package the earring and mail it to me with your contact information so I can call you for credit card payment, or you can email me first for the pricing information and enclose a check with your earring. We usually complete requests within a week, but please let me know if you have a specific deadline to meet.
With most of my French hook earrings I provide rubber stoppers for the hooks. It is your prerogative whether or not you wear them, but I cannot be held responsible if you lose an earring or two. I have started to use heavier, curvier commercially-made French hooks on several earrings because they hug the earlobe more and tend to not slide out. In the jewelry catalog there’s a section called “incidentals” where you can order extra stoppers.
Cut a long 1-inch wide strip of paper. Pull the tips of your fingers together and make your hand as small as possible (mimic the way you would put on a bangle). Wrap the piece of paper around the widest point of your hand (usually the knuckles) and mark the point where the paper overlaps to form a complete circle. Measure the length and compare it to this chart for my bangle sizes. Double check your measurement by taping the paper together in a circle to make sure it can slide on and off over your hand.
Small: 7.75-8
Medium: 8.5-8.75
Large: 9.25-9.5
Perfect fit: send your measurement to me and I can make a custom bangle for you. I build in just enough room so it will slide easily over your hand. Please allow 2 weeks for a custom order.
Note: I have a bracelet measuring tool that I take to most shows, and I usually have a good selection of bangles if you want to try on a variety of shapes and sizes to see what works for you!
You can always email me for special requests, especially if you saw a piece at a show that you do not see in the jewelry catalog. If you want a slight adjustment to a piece you do find in the catalog, simply explain what you are looking for in the comments box on the order page. Make sure you provide contact information in case I have a question.
I have niobium ear wires available, which work well with oxidized sterling because they are a dark gunmetal color. Here’s what wikipedia says about niobium: “Because niobium metal and some niobium alloys are physiologically inert (and thus hypoallergenic), they are used in jewelry and in medical devices such as pacemakers.” I can put niobium ear wires on your earrings by request.
Any earrings that dangle from French hooks can be switched to dangle from simple clip-top earrings that I have available for an additional cost of $12. You can email or call me with this type of request. I am also in the process of developing other clip options - feel free to email me to let me know you are interested when they are available.
If your custom jewelry order is essentially a tweak to an existing design in the jewelry catalog, it is handled like a regular order and will be filled quickly. If your custom jewelry order requires design time and concepting, talk to me and let me know what you have in mind. I will check my schedule to see if I have time to take on a special project. I love doing custom work – which has included designing cufflinks, making a mini violin pendant, creating a pendant from a Japanese pachinko ball, and more – but have to make sure I have the time to fill my regular studio commitments. Custom design is handled on an hourly basis to include sketching, meeting, and design revisions plus the cost of materials. An estimate will be provided for your approval.
Yes. Many contemporary brides have selected designs from my collection and we have adapted the size or color to work perfectly with their bridal ensemble and vision. I also accept custom orders if you want something different and unexpected. In the past pieces have included headbands, hairclips, necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks; I’ve also incorporated special pieces from a loved one and can work to coordinate with existing jewelry you plan to wear. I can develop design sketches for you once you know what your dress will look like, and we can work together from there. I can also help with selections for other members of the wedding party, whether for pieces to wear to the event or personalized gifts. Feel free to contact me for an appointment to view my bridal portfolio and discuss your needs.
I have made some fun art rings and am in the process of developing a line of rings that can be ordered to size. You can always talk to me about custom ring designs as well.
If you need a replacement chain or simply what another option for a piece of jewelry you purchased from me, please contact me and let me know what you are looking for. There are some chains available for purchase in the “incidentals” section of my jewelry catalog, but I have many other options available and can talk you though the options.
Each year I select up to 10 charities to work with for a donation, whether cash or an auction item. I wish I could help everyone! Please send your request to me via mail or email so I can review it.

All of the work is handmade, with the main tools being a set of pliers. The pieces are constructed in a freeform style, which means we are not wrapping the wire around any commercial jigs or forms. Almost all pieces are cold-connected, meaning no soldering is used in the construction. If you are really curious about the process, you should buy a copy of my book “Elegant Wire Jewelry,” which explains a lot of the process in a step-by-step project format.
The jewelry is almost exclusively made from sterling silver and solid 18k or 14k gold wire. Custom work can be done in other types of metal as requested
Argentium is a new type of sterling silver that does not tarnish as quickly as regular sterling; I have started to experiment with it and use it for certain designs. It is more expensive than regular sterling, and not all findings (clasps, ear wires, chains) are available in Argentium yet, making the transition difficult. Argentium also reacts differently to oxidation/patination techniques. In general you will not be able to visibly discern pieces that I have used Argentium vs. sterling silver. The care is the same, and both are officially considered .925 sterling silver.
“Oxidized” is the conversational term that a lot of jewelers (including myself) use to describe sterling silver that has been darkened. Technically what is going on is a chemical reaction to the small amount of copper that is used to alloy the silver to make it .925 sterling. I use the chemical liver of sulfur to darken sterling because I can achieve a variety of effects and colors with it. I also like that it is not always a flat black; it is often a deep brown or dark black with warm undertones. This variety and unpredictability of colors appeals to me as an artist and adds to the uniqueness of each piece.
The oxidation/patination process is very quick to ensure that the metal does not have a thick coating that could flake off. The effect is permanent but it does not mean that it will not change (see the care section for pointers). The nature of sterling silver is to darken or tarnish over time, which can affect the look of the patina. The patinas do not come off on your skin when wearing them, but often the dark oxidation gets slightly shinier with repeated wear. I apply a light lacquer coating to some pieces if it works on the materials to help slow the change. Personally I like the changeable nature of the work – it makes it artsy-er and more unusual.
I have a large network of suppliers, but I order most of my wire from Hoover & Strong since their metals are American-made 100% recycled content. I hand-select my gems and pearls with specific vendors at gem shows a couple of times a year.

I do not maintain my own retail venue. You can find my work at a variety of art fairs and at many stores in Chicago and around the country. For a complete list visit my where to find page.
This policy varies with each store, although most stores do accept custom orders. If you do special order through a store, be as clear and detailed as possible about the jewelry piece as well as your timeframe since the store will be placing the order with me and I generally will not have your direct contact information for questions.
Not all pieces are available at any given show. I always strive to bring fresh work to shows, particularly to shows that I visit each year. If there is a particular piece from the catalog that you would like to see at a show, email me and let me know. I will try to have the piece set aside for you per arrangements we make together.
As long as it is a piece from the catalog, that is fine. I appreciate it if you can come by my booth as early as possible in the show to look at the piece so that if you decide not to buy it I can put it out on display for the remainder of the show.
Not necessarily! You may become used to seeing me at your favorite show, but the fact of the matter is that I have to apply to each show every year (unless I’ve won an award or been re-invited) and wait for the results. Nothing is set in stone. I also travel to a lot of shows and often have to make choices about where to apply based on my trip planning.
I average about 20 shows a year, not counting gallery exhibits. I generally do not have any shows in January, but start up in early February and have anywhere from 1-3 shows a month for the rest of the year.
You can buy my book directly from me at most of my shows, and it is available at many retail locations around the country. You can special order it from your favorite book store, or it is most readily available at Barnes & Noble since they are the parent company of Lark Books.

All of the jewelry is officially made in America since it is handmade by me and my assistants in my Chicago studio. For more information about the space and building itself, check out In the Studio.
The studio is essentially a manufacturing, production, and distribution facility. The jewelry is not usually on display, and the environment can be chaotic since I load and unload equipment for show travels a lot. It is fun to see where the jewelry is made, so individual studio visits can be arranged by appointment. Usually once or twice a year I host open studios, which are great casual shopping experiences (often with sale bins) and are a nice way to see where the work is made in a slightly cleaned up atmosphere.
All of the jewelry featured on this site is best-termed “some of a kind.” Designs are re-created. Each piece is individually hand made, so each piece will have its own unique features. We keep the designs fresh by creating new options, and I always have new ideas in the works.